CAUTION_____ _____

Do not scrape off the deposits with a scraper as this could damage the rubber, requiring replacement of the suction valve assembly.

Vacuum Switch Valve Installation

• Install the vacuum switch valve so that the air hole [A] faces downwards.

• Route the hoses correctly (see General Information chapter).

Vacuum Switch Valve Test

Using the vacuum gauge and a syringe, inspect the vacuum switch operation as follows:

• Remove the vacuum switch valve.

• Connect the vacuum gauge [A] and syringe [B] or fork oil level gauge to the vacuum hoses as shown.

Special Tools - Vacuum Gauge: 57001-1369

Fork Oil Level Gauge: 57001-1290

H the upper chain guide does not bottom out, the camshaft chain can raise the guide and the cylinder head cover which could cause oil leakage.

• Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts. Torque - Cylinder Head Cover Bolts: 9.8 N-m (1.0 kg-m, 87 in-lb)

•Tighten the right camshaft cap bolts [E] first. OThe cap has two set rings.

[F] Front •Tighten the camshaft cap bolts.

Torque - Camshaft Cap Bolts: 12 N-m (1.2 кдчп, 104 in-lb)

Camshaft Camshaft Cap Wear

• Measure each clearance between the camshaft journal and the

camshaft cap using plastigage (press gauge) [A). •Tighten the camshaft cap bolts.

Torque - Camshaft Cap Bolts: 12 N-m(1.2 kg-m, 104 in-lb)

NOTE

О Do not turn the camshaft when the plastigage is between the journal and camshaft cap.

*lf any clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the diameter of each camshaft journal with a micrometer.

Camshaft Journal, Camshaft Cap Clearance #1, #4 Journals

Standard: 0.048 - 0.091 mm

Service Limit 0.18 mm #2, #3 Journals

Standard: 0.078 ~ 0.121 mm

Service Limit 0.21 mm

• Push the rocker shaft all the way in. The end of the rocker shaft should be recessed 0.1 ~ 0.9 mm inside the left side rocker shaft support.

[A] Left Cylinder Head Cover [D] Cylinder Head

[B] Rocker Shaft [E] Rocker Shaft Support

[C] O-ring

• Install the left cylinder head cover. Be careful not to pinch the O-ring. •Tighten the left cylinder head cover screws and oil hose banjo bolt.

Torque - Left Cylinder Head Cover Screws: 4.9 N-m (0.50 kg-m, 43 in-lb)

Oil Hose Banjo Bolt: 34 N-m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ft-lb)

• Remove the 6 mm cylinder head bolts [A], and then the 10 mm cylinder head bolts [B], using the hexagon wrench.

Special Tool - Hexagon Wrench, Hex 8: 57001-1234

•Take off the cylinder head.

______________________ CAUTION_________

Do not grind the seat loo much. Overgrindlng will reduce valve clearance by sinking the valve into the head. If the valve sinks too far into the head, it will be impossible to ad|ust the clearance, and the cylinder head must be replaced.

• Measure the outside diameter of the seating surface with a vernier caliper.

*lf the outside diameter of the seating surface is too small, repeat the

45° grind until the diameter is within the specified range. *lf the outside diameter of the seating surface is too large, make the

32° grind described below.

*lf the outside diameter of the seating surface is within the specified range, measure the seat width as described below.

• Grind the seat at a 32* angle until the seat O.D. is within the specified range.

• Remove the top and second rings with piston ring pliers. Special Tool - Piston Ring Pliers: 57001-115

• If the special tool is not available, carefully spread the ring opening with your thumbs and then push up on the opposit side of the ring [A] to remove it.

• Remove the 3-piece oil ring with your thumbs inthe same manner.

_________________________ CAUTION______________________

Do not reuse snap rings, as removal weakens and deforms them. They could fall out and score the cylinder wall.

Cylinder Wear

•Since there is a difference in cylinder wear in different directions, take a side-to-side and a front-to-back measurement at each of the two locations (total of four measurements) shown in the figure.

*lf any of the cylinder inside diameter measurements exceeds the service limit, the cylinder will have to be bored to oversize and then honed.

[A] 10 mm

[B] 60 mm

Cylinder Inside Diameter

Standard: 73.000 ~ 73.012 mm Service Limit 73.1 mm

Recommended Clutch Fluid

Grade: D.O.T.4 Heavy Duty Brake Fluid Brand: Castrol Girling-Unlversal Castrol GT (LMA) Castrol Disc Brake Fluid Check Shock Premium Heavy Duty

NOTE

О Since the dutch fluid is the same as the brake fluid, refer to Brake Fluid Section in Brakes chapter for further details.

Clutch Fluid Change

• Level the clutch fluid reservoir.

• Remove the reservoir cap.

• Remove the rubber cap from the bleed valve on the clutch slave cylinder.

• Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleed valve and run the other end of the hose into a container.

• Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. •Change the clutch fluid as follows: О Open the bleed valve. [A]

О Squeeze the clutch lever and hold it. [B] О Close the bleed valve. [C] О Release the clutch lever. [D]

О Repeat this operation until fresh fluid comes out from the plastic hose

or the color of the fluid changes. О Check the fluid level in the reservoir often, replenishing it as necessary.

NOTE

О If the fluid in the reservoir runs completely out any time during fluid changing, the bleeding operation must be done since air will have entered the line.

_________________________ CAUTION

Use only disc brake/clutch fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol, tor cleaning parts. Do not use any other fluid for cleaning these parts. Gasoline, motor oil, or any other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration of the rubber parts. Oil spilled on any part will be difficult to wash off completely, and will eventrually deteriorate the rubberr used in the cylinder.

•Apply clutch fluid to the parts removed and to the inner wall of the cylinder. Take care not to scratch the piston or the inner wall of the cylinder.

• Check to see that the piston return spring pusheds back the piston to its rest position when the spring is compressed.

• Install the push rod with the dust seal fitted into the groove. OThe push rod round end must be faced inwards.

• Use a new flat washer on each side of the hose fitting. •Tighten the banjo bolt.

Torque - Clutch Hose Banjo BoW: 25 N-m (2.5 kg-m, 18.0 ft-lb)

• Fill the clutch fluid into the clutch line and bleed the clutch line (see Clutch Fluid Change and Bleeding the Clutch Line).

Clutch Master Cylinder Inspection (Visual Inspection)

•Check that there are no scratches, rust or pitting on the inside of the master cylinder and on the outside of the piston.

*lf the master cylinder or piston shows any damage, replace them.

• Inspect the primary cup and secondary cup.

*lf a cup is worn, damaged, softened (rotted), or swollen, the piston assembly should be replaced to renew the cups.

• If fluid leakage is noted at the clutch lever, the piston assembly should be replaced to renew the cups.

•Check the dust cover for damage.

•If it is damaged, replace it.

•Check that the relief and supply ports are not plugged.

*lf the small relief port becomes plugged, the clutch will slip. Blow the ports clean with compressed air.

•Check the piston return spring for any damage.

*lf the spring is damaged, repalce it.

_____________________ CAUTION________________

Racing the engine before the oil reaches every part can cause engine seizure.

if the engine oil gets extremely low or if the oil pump or oil passages clog up or otherwise do not function properly, the oil pressure warning light will light If this light stays on when the engine is running above Idle speed, stop the engine immediately and find the cause.

Engine Oil Change

• Support the motorcycle perpendicular to the ground after warming up the engine.

• Remove the engine drain plug [A] to drain the oil.

OThe oil in the oil filter can be drained by removing the filter (see Oil Filter Change).

• Replace the drain plug gasket [B] with a new one if it is damaged. •Tighten the drain plug.

Torque - Engine Drain Plug: 20 N-m (2.0 kg-m, 14.5 ft-lb)

• Pour in the specified type and amount of oil.

Engine Oil

Grade: SE, SF or SG class Viscosity: SAE 10W40, 10WSO, 20W40, or 20W50 Amount: 3.4 L (when filter Is not removed) 3.5 L (when filter is removed) 4.0 L (when engine is completely dry)

Oil Filter Change

• Drain the engine oil (see Engine Oil Change).

• Remove:

Left Lower Fairing (see Frame chapter) Oil Pipe Flange Bolt [A] and Oil Pipe [B] •Remove the oil filter [C] with the oil filter wrench [D].

Special Tool - Oil Filter Wrench: 57001-1249

• Replace the filter with a new one.

•Apply engine oil to the gasket before installation. •Tighten the filter with the oil filter wrench or with hands about У* turns after the gasket contacts the mounting surface of the engine.

Torque - Oil Fitter: 9Л N-m (1.0 kg-m, 87 In-lb) or Hand-tight

•Apply engine oil to the O-ring on the oil pipe, and tighten the oil pipe flange bolt.

Torque - Oil Pipe Range Bolt 9.8 N-m (1.0 kg-m, 87 in-lb) or Hand-tight

• Pour in the specified type and amount of oil (see Engine Oil Change).

• Install the pump cover [А].

•Turn the oil pump shaft so that the pump shaft projection [B] fits the

slot [C] in the end of the water pump shaft. •Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the oil pump bolts, and tighten them.

Torque - Oil Pump Bolts: 12 N-m (1.2 kg-m, 104 In-lb)

Oil Pressure

Standard: 305 - 365 kPa (3.1 - 3.7 kg/cm^, 44 - 53 psi) @4000 r/mln (rpm), 90 С (194'F) of oil temp.

*lf the oil pressure is much lower than the standard, check the oil pump,

left relief valve, and/or crankshaft bearing insert wear immediately.

Do nol apply silicone sealant around the crankshaft main bearing inserts.

•Tighten the lower crankcase bolts.

О Following the sequence numbers on the lower crankcase half, tighten the 9 mm bolts [А].

Torque - Crankcase 9 mm Bolts: 44 N-m (4.5 kg-m, 33 ft-lb) О Tighten the 8 mm bolt [В].

Torque - Crankcase 8 mm Bolt: 27 N-m (2.8 kg-m, 20 ft-lb) О Tighten the 6 mm bolts [С]. Torque - Crankcase 6 mm Bolts: 20 N-m (2.0 kg-m. 14.5 ft-lb)

•Tighten the upper crankcase bolts.

Torque - Crankcase 8 mm Bolts [A]: 27 N-m (2.8 kg-m, 20 ft-lb) Crankcase 6 mm Bolts [B]: 20 N-m (2.0 kg-m, 14.5 ft-lb)

• After tightening all crankcase bolts, check the following items. О Drive shaft and output shafts turn freely.

С While spinning the output shaft, gears shift smoothly from the 1st to

6th gear, and 6th to 1 st. С When the output shaft stays still, the gear can not be shifted to 2nd gear or other higher gear positions.

_________________________ CAUTION

H the crankshaft, bearing inserts, or crankcase halves are replaced with new ones, select the bearing inserts and check clearance with a plastigage before assembling engine to be sure the correct bearing inserts are installed.

•Apply engine oil to the crankshaft main bearing inserts. • Install the crankshaft with the camshaft chain hanging on it.

Connecting Rod Removal

•Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

• Remove the connecting rod nuts.

• Remove the crankshaft.

NOTE

О Mark and record the locations of the connecting rods and their big end caps so that they can be reassembled in their original positions.

• Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft.

Connecting Rod Installation

_________________________ CAUTION ____

To minimize vibration, a pair of connecting rods (left two rods or right two) should have the same weight mark.

Big End Cap [A] Connecting Rod [B] Weight Mark, Alphabet [C] Diameter Mark [D]

• If the connecting rods, big end bearing inserts, or crankshaft are replaced with new ones, select the bearing insert and check clearance with a plastigage before assembling engine to be sure the correct bearing inserts are installed.

•Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the upper inneT surface of the connecting rod big end.

•Apply engine oil to the inner surface of upper and lower bearing inserts.

Apply molybdenum disulfide grease [А]. Do not apply grease [В]. Oil [С].

_________________ CAUTION__________________________________

Immediately dry the bolts and nuts with compressed air after cleaning.

Clean and dry the bolts and nuts completely.

• Install new bolts in reused connecting rods.

• Dent both bolt head and bolt tip with a punch as shown.

• Before tightening, use a point micrometer to measure the length of new connecting rod bolts and record the values to find the bolt stretch.

Connecting Rod [A] Dent here with a punch [В]. Nuts [C]

Fit micrometer pins into dents [D]. •Tighten the big end nuts until the bolt elongation reaches the length

specified in the table. •Check the length of the connecting rod bolts.

* If the stretch is more than the usable range, the bolt has stretched too much. An overelongated bolt may break in use.

Bolt Length _ Bolt Length Stretch

after tightening before tightening

• First, tighten the nuts to the specified torque. See the table below.

• Next tighten the nuts 120" more.

О Mark [A] the connecting rod big end caps and nuts so that nuts can

be turned 120^е [B] properly. OTighten the hexagon nut by 2 comers.

• Move the swingarm [A] and drive chain [B] toward the rear to remove the external shift mechanism cover [С].

NOTE

О Place an oil pan beneath the external shift mechanism cover.

• Remove:

Bolts [D] and Flat Head Screws [E] External Shift Mechanism Cover

• Replace the cover gasket with a new one. •Apply high temperature grease to the oil seal lips.

• Install the cover and tighten the cover bolts.

О Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the bolts [A] and screws [В].

Torque - External Shift Mechanism Cover Bolts: 9.8 N-m (1.0 kg-m, 87 in-lb)

External Shift Mechanism Cover Screws: 4.9 N-m (0.50 kg-m, 43 in-lb)

•Check:

Drive Chain Slack Engine Oil Level

_________________________ CAUTION

Do not lay the wheel down on one of the discs. This can damage or warp the disc. Place blocks under the wheel so lhat the disc does not touch the ground.

Front Wheel Installation

• Install the speedometer gear housing so that its projections [A] fit into the gear drive notches [B] in the wheel hub.

• Fit the collar on the right side of the hub.

• Fit the speedometer gear housing stop[A] in the fork leg stops[В].

•Tighten the axle nut and axle clamp bolt.

Torque - Front Axle Nut 145 N-m(15.0 kg-m, 110 ft-lb)

Front Axle Clamp Bolls: 20 N-m< 2.0 kg-m, 14.5 ft-lb)

• Install the front brake caliper (see Brakes chapter).

• Check the front brake.

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc. Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does not touch the ground.

Rear Wheel Installation

• Engage the drive chain with the rear sprocket.

• Install the caliper bracket [A] onto the swingarm stop [В].

О Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and tighten the axle nut.

Torque - Rear Axle Nut 145 N-m (15.0 kg-m, 110 ft-lb)

•Adjust the drive chain slack after installation (see Final Drive chapter). •Check the rear brake.

Wiring Inspection

•Visually inspect the wiring for signs of burning, fraying, etc. *lf any wiring is poor, replace the damaged wiring.

• Pull each connector [A] apart and inspect it for corrosion, dirt, and damage.

*lf the connector is corroded or dirty, clean it carefully. If it is damaged, replace it.

• Check the wiring for continuity.

О Use the wiring diagram to find the ends of the lead which is suspected

of being a problem. О Connect the hand tester between the ends of the leads.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

О Set the tester to the x 1 Q range, and read the tester. *lf the tester does not read 0 Q, the lead is defective. Replace the lead or the wiring harness [B] if necessary.

Be sure to disconnect the negative terminal lead first.

• Measure the battery terminal voltage.

NOTE

О Measure with a digital voltmeter [A] which can be read one decimal place voltage.

*lf the reading is below the specified, refreshing charge is required.

Battery Terminal Voltage

Standard: 12.6 V or more

• Ground the F terminal [A] of the regulator to the engine with an auxiliary wire.

• Start the engine, and check the charging voltage with the engine running.

*lf the charging voltage is higher than 13.5 V, check the regulator. *lf the charging voltage is lower than 13.5 V, check the following. Stator Coil Rotor Coil Slip Rings Carbon Brushes Rectifier

_________________________ CAUTION___________

Do not contact the regulator metal case with the wires from the battery (+) or (-) terminal during the test.

*lf the test light does not go on, the regulator is damaged and must be replaced.

•Connect the test light and two 12 V batteries to the regulator [A] as shown.

OThe test light should not go on at this time.

*lf the test light goes on, the regulator is damaged and must be replaced.

•Set the hand tester (special tool) to the 1 kQ range. •Check the resistance between IG and F terminals in both directions.

________________________ CAUTION__________________________

Do not disconnect the battery leads or any other electrical connections when the ignition switch Is on, or while the engine is running. This is to prevent 1С igniter damage. Do not install the battery backwards. The negative side is grounded. This is to prevent damage to the diodes and 1С igniter.

Pickup Coil Removal

• Remove the following.

Fuel Tank (see Fuel System chapter) Pickup Coil Lead Connector Right Lower Fairing Pickup Coil Cover

• Remove the pickup coil [A] by taking off the pickup coil bolts [В].

Pickup Coil Installation

• Route the pickup coil lead correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing in the General/Information chapter).

• Install the pickup coil and tighten the pickup coil bolts.

Torque - Pickup Coll Bolts: 7.8 N-m (0.80 kg-m, 69 In-lb)

•Apply silicone sealant [A] to the crankcase halves mating surface on the front and rear sides of the pickup coil cover mount.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 56019-120

•Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the pickup coil cover bolts [A] and tighten them.

Torque - Pickup Coll Cover Bolts: 9.8 N-m (1.0 kg-m, 87 In-lb)

*lf the distance reading is less than the specified value, the ignition coil

or spark plug caps are defective. •To determine which part is defective, measure the arcing distance again with the spark plug caps removed from the ignition coil. Remove the caps by turning them counterclockwise. *lf the arcing distance is subnormal as before, the trouble is with the ignition coil itself. If the arcing distance is now normal, the trouble is with the spark plug cap.

*lf the coil tester is not available, the coil can be checked for a broken or badly shorted winding with the hand tester(special tool).

NOTE

О The hand tester cannot detect layer shorts and shorts resulting from insulation breakdown under high voltage.

• Measure the primary winding resistance as follows. О Connect the hand tester between the coil terminals. О Set the tester to the x 1 Q range, and read the tester.

• Measure the secondary winding resistance as follows.

О Remove the plug caps by turning them counterclockwise. О Connect the tester between the spark plug leads.

О Set the tester to the x 1 kQ range and read the tester. Measure primary winding resistance [А]. Measure secondary winding resistance [В]. Ignition Coil [С].

Ignition Coil Winding Resistance

Primary Windings: 2.3 ~ 3.5 Q (x 1 Q)

Secondary Windings: 12 ~ 18 kQ (x 1 kQ)

*lf the tester does not read as specified, replace the coil. OTo install the plug cap, turn it clockwise.

Spark Plug Removal

• Remove the following.

Air Cleaner Housing Spark Plug Caps

• Remove the spark plugs using the 16 mm plug wrench.

Owner's Tool - Spark Plug Wrench, 16 mm: 92110-1154

1. 1С Igniter

2. Fuel Pump Relay

3. Junction Box

4. Starter Circuit Relay

5. Ignition Fuse 10A

1. Ignition Switch

2. Water Temperature Gauge

3. Water Temperature Sensor

1. Fuel Level Sensor

2. Fuel Gauge

3. Junction Box

[1] Fit the strip of caps [A] tightly into the filler ports until the strip is at the same level as the top of the battery.

NOTE

О Do not hammer. Press down evenly with both hands.

[2]lf the canister has any cracks or bad damage, replace it with a new one.

NOTE

О The canister is designed to work well through the motorcycle's life without any maintenance if it is used under normal conditions.

[3]

Since the friction force of the seating surface and thread portion of new nuts is different from that of used ones, the nut tightening torque should be changed as specified in the above table. Be careful not to overtighten the nuts.

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin Wear • Using a plastigage (press gauge) [A], measure the bearing insert/crankpin [B] clearance.

NOTE

О Tighten the connecting rod big end nuts to the specified torque (see

Connecting Rod Installation). О Do not move the connecting rod and crankshaft during clearance measurement.

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin Clearance Standard: 0.036 - 0.066 mm Service Limit 0.10 mm

*lf clearance is within the standard, no bearing replacement is required. *lf clearance is between 0.066 mm and the service limit (0.10 mm), replace the bearing inserts with inserts painted blue [С]. Check insert/crankpin clearance with the plastigage. The clearance may exceed the standard slightly, but it must not be less than the minimum in order to avoid bearing seizure. *lf the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the diameter of the crankpins.

Crankpin Diameter

Standard: 34.984 - 35.000 mm Service Limit: 34.96 mm

[5] If the reading shows zero or infinity (no reading) in both directions, the regulator [A] is defective and must be replaced.

Alternator Ball Bearing Inspection

______________ CAUTION_____________________

Do not disassemble the aHemator for bearing inspection since disassembling the alternator damages the bearings.

•Turn the alternator shaft back and forth while checking for plays,

roughness or binding of bearings. *lf bearing play, roughness, or binding is found, disassemble the alternator and replace the bearings.

[6] Turn Signal Indicator Light 5. Turn Signal Fuse 10A 9. Turn Signal Switch

2. Front Right Turn Signal Light 6. Junction Box 10. Ignition Switch

3. Front Left Turn Signal Light 7. Rear Right Turn Signal Light 11. Main Fuse 30A

4. Turn Signal Relay 8. Rear Left Turn Signal Light 12. Battery

[7] Using the hand tester, measure the resistance across the terminals in the fuel level sensor lead connector [А].

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

*lf the tester readings are not as specified, or do not change smoothly according as the float moves up and down, replace the sensor.

Fuel Level Sensor Resistance

Standard: Full position: 1 ~ 5 Q

Empty position: 103 - 117 О

[8]The resistance should be low in one direction and more than ten times as much in the other direction. If any diode shows low or high in both directions, the diode is defective and the junction box must be replaced.

NOTE

О The actual meter reading varies with the meter used and the individual diodes, but generally speaking, the lower reading should be from zero to one half the scale.

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